Amed and the developing coast of East Bali<\/p>\n
By Brant Connors<\/p>\n
Three hours from the crowds of Kuta and the traffic of
\nDenpasar, East Bali beckons the traveler in search of peace and
\nserenity. The east end of the world's most magical island cradles
\nbeautiful stretches of farmland, rich religious cultural history,
\nworld-class diving and snorkling, and a glimpse at village life
\nthat is quickly fading as development approaches.<\/p>\n
Amed, perched on the coast north of Mt. Seraya and east of the
\nmajestic Mt. Agung, still clings to its roots as a fishing
\nvillage. Colorful fishing boats, called jukung, rest on the sand
\nshore. Crude wooden stills and designated stretches of muddy
\nbeach use traditional methods of evaporation and drying to
\nharvest cooking salt from the abundant seawater. The roads are
\nrough and crowded more often with lazy brown cows than fast-
\nmoving cars.<\/p>\n
The quiet fishing village is changing. Hotels and upscale
\nbungalows dot the sandy coves. Dive shops and restaurants draw in
\nthe small but growing number of tourists. In the early hours of
\nmorning, a teenage boy walking along the road may head to work at
\na cottage hotel rather than follow his father to the sea.<\/p>\n
Amed has long been known to scuba divers, but until recently
\nhas attracted relatively few tourists. A lack of electricity,
\nphone lines, even decent roads have prevented development, but as
\nmore tourists have flocked to Bali, hidden flowers have started
\nto bloom in the island paradise. Unspoiled pockets of serenity
\nsuch as Amed continue to become viable travel destinations.<\/p>\n
Each morning off Amed's shores, the coming day stains the
\nskies red and outlines Lombok's Mt. Rinjani in purple and orange
\njust before the fireball sun itself roars above the gentle
\nwaters. East Bali springs to life immediately and without
\nhesitation. Children run to the water to swim as sun-stained men
\npush off in search of tuna and mackerel. Tourists stroll toward
\nthe shore to enjoy some of Bali's best snorkling in Amed's
\nsheltered coves where bright fish and clear waters gently
\nhypnotize curious swimmers.<\/p>\n
Tulamben, to the north, boasts one of Bali's favorite scuba
\ndestinations, the wreck of the U.S. cargo ship Liberty. In 1942,
\nthe armed ship was torpedoed by a Japanese submarine. Today,
\ndivers explore the skeleton of the lost vessel and the marine
\nlife that calls it home. Dive teams regularly travel to Tulamben
\nfrom Kuta and Lovina, but Amed's PADI-certified dive shops get
\ndivers into the water earlier for a chance to explore the
\nslumbering soldier in solitude. A small Japanese warship also
\nlies dormant under the water off Amed's coast as well. Though no
\nnearly as large or attractive as the Liberty, it remains a
\ncuriosity for snorkelers.<\/p>\n
Less fertile than inland Bali, the island shadowing Amed's
\ncoast and the cape of East Bali does not hold the terraced rice
\nfields than can be found just a few kilometers into the island.
\nInstead, wild palm and banana trees thrive. Grapes are also grown
\nfor Bali's Indigo brand wine. Traveling south along the coast,
\nthe black and white sand beaches of Amed soon become dry and
\nrocky, offering a dazzlingly different climate than the lush
\nverdant Bali of the picturesque beauty. Even the locals disappear
\nalong the rugged path south of Mt. Seraya, but the adventurous
\ncan enjoy a chunk of Bali all to themselves with an afternoon
\ntrek in this beautiful, lonely landscape.<\/p>\n
Local history and culture is easy to find on the way to Amed.
\nCaged fighting cocks line the roads in front of houses. Powerful
\narak (homemade Balinese liquor) is sold to passersby, and
\nHindu temples remain aspects of daily life to East Bali's people.
\nShrines may not be always visible, but remain close at hand for
\nthose willing to investigate.<\/p>\n
Along the main road back to Denpasar, the Tirta Gangga water
\npalace is both mystical and accessible. Built by the last king of
\nKarangasem in the 1940s, Tirta Gangga (Water of the Ganges) is a
\ntribute to the late king's ingenuity and fascination with water.
\nCold mountain water flows through several stone fountains and
\nbathing pools high on a hillside that provides panoramic scenic
\nviews and abundant hiking opportunities. Surrounded by rice
\nterraces and decorated with curious statues and carvings, the
\nroyal bathing pools were built on the site of a holy spring.
\nTirta Gangga is aging quickly but is still popular with tourists
\nduring the day and local children who come to swim on a hot
\nevening.<\/p>\n
The Kertha Gosa Old Court Hall in Klungkung was formerly part
\nof the Semarapura Royal Palace and is now open to visitors. Used
\nas a justice hall until the mid-20th century, the open-air
\npavilion is decorated with stone sculptures, flowery wood
\ncarvings and traditional Kamasan-style paintings of Hindu
\ntorments and punishments. Nearby is the site and museum of the
\n1908 Klungkung Heroic Battle fought against the Dutch. Both sites
\ngive a vivid description of Bali's recent history.<\/p>\n
Amed may not stay quiet for long. Development eyes its serene
\ncoastline, vibrant waters and breezy hillsides, and Amed itself
\nseems eager to accept its destiny. In the restaurants, local
\nchildren drag westerners onto a dance floor to move to the choppy
\nmusic of the rhythmic gamelan. On the main road children gripped
\nby stone-faced mothers wave to travelers. A wave back draws
\nshrieks of laughter from the children and sudden, enormous smiles
\nfrom the strong faces of the appreciative mothers. Photo
\nopportunities jump out from every hillside both along Amed's
\ncoast and during the drive back to Denpasar past leafy forests,
\nterraced rice fields and curious villagers eager to know the
\nimpressions of their visitors.<\/p>\n
The best time to see East Bali in bloom is November through
\nFebruary; but like all of Bali, it is a carnival of life all year
\nround.<\/p>",
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