A stroll in leisurely Malang, with history on every corner<\/p>\n
By Simon Marcus Gower<\/p>\n
MALANG, East Java (JP): Entering Malang from north of the city
\none is greeted by a familiar smell. It is a common smell in
\nthe country, yet to have it hanging in the air over a whole area
\nof a city is unusual.<\/p>\n
It is the cloying fragrance of kretek cigarettes.<\/p>\n
The reason becomes clear as one espies the first of many signs
\nand advertisements for famous cigarette brands. Where some cities
\nmight have signs welcoming visitors, Malang here has street-wide
\nbanners proclaiming this as the \"home\" and source of millions of
\nkretek cigarettes each year.<\/p>\n
A translation of the Indonesian word malang is misfortune, and
\nthose in the antismoking lobby would suggest that Malang has the
\nmisfortune of being a major center of cigarette production.
\nHowever, thousands of Malang residents may argue otherwise. The
\nkretek factories employ thousands of locals and the dozens of
\ntrucks transporting the slim and sweetly fragranced cigarettes
\nexemplify the massive scale of production, and indeed
\nconsumption, of these cigarettes.<\/p>\n
Following some of these trucks into Malang, the straight road
\nleads to the center of this small but growing city. With a huddle
\nof significant volcanic mountains (Arjuna, Bromo, Butak and
\nKepolo) surrounding the city, Malang offers a cooler climate
\nthan most East Java locations. Its proximity to these volcanoes
\nalso makes it a noted stopover for climbers, mostly those
\nsightseers making the journey to Bromo.<\/p>\n
Malang seems to fit the description of a \"stopover\" city. It
\nis a relatively modest city in terms of sights, but its compact
\ncenter has a number of interesting sites all within easy walking
\ndistance or, if a more leisurely and relaxing mode of
\ntransport is required, within a becak (pedicab) ride
\nof each other.<\/p>\n
The center of the city is marked by a typical alun-alun (town
\nsquare) known as Merdeka (freedom) Square. This wide, open space
\nhas a busy yet leisurely communal feel to it. The southern edge
\nis filled with a variety of stalls selling everything from books
\nto hats and audio cassettes, to construction and engineering
\ntools. But most of the other three sides are clear, apart from
\noccasional food sellers.<\/p>\n
The centerpiece of the square is a modest fountain, and
\nthroughout the area there are numerous concrete benches where
\npeople from all walks of life take a break.<\/p>\n
Near the town square are numerous architectural reminders of
\nMalang as a place of Dutch colonial activities. Two churches
\nstand nearby -- one of them a cathedral -- but regrettably, for
\nsecurity reasons, they are locked up for most of the week. Two
\nhotels in the area (Riche and Pelangi) are interesting examples
\nof colonial architecture, both exhibiting the kind of art deco
\ndesigns that were so favored by the Dutch. But it is another
\nDutch art deco building that is, perhaps, the most remarkable and
\nintriguing of Malang's colonial remnants.<\/p>\n
Toko Oen<\/p>\n
Only a two-minute walk from Merdeka Square, Toko Oen is a
\nunique restaurant that was established in 1930 and, it seems, has
\nchanged little since. With its high ceiling, lethargic ceiling
\nfans, piano in the corner and antique furniture, stepping into
\nthis restaurant is almost like traveling back in time.<\/p>\n
The waiters wear white tunics and bring your order on an
\nantique wheeled trolley. Toko Oen boasts good food, some
\ndelicious juice combinations and an ice cream palace and
\npatisserie. The cumulative effect is to make one very
\ncomfortable. With live piano music and a gently fluttering candle
\nupon each table it is easy to be transported back to those
\ncolonial days, and imagine colonial plantation owners sitting in
\nthese same chairs and enjoying similar culinary pleasures.<\/p>\n
The throwing off of the shackles of colonialism is represented
\nat the Brawijaya Military Museum on the city's famed tree-lined
\nJl. Ijen, formerly \"Idjen Boulevard\". In front of this exotically
\ndesigned 1950s building there are tanks and antiaircraft guns
\nmounted on pedestals. Within the building there are numerous
\nexhibits displaying the arms and armory of the struggle for
\nindependence. Notable among this vast collection of weaponry is
\nthe commemoration of the prominent and vital role General
\nSudirman played in the battles for independence in East Java.<\/p>\n
Among the tributes to Sudirman's memory is the recognition of
\nthe remarkable manner in which he fought despite suffering great
\nillness. Photographs illustrate the huge crowds that gathered to
\nhonor him when tuberculosis finally overcame him in 1950.<\/p>\n
The fight for independence is also commemorated in Malang by
\nthe town's Independence Monument, which is a black stone, needle-
\nlike in construction, that stands in front of the Balai Kota
\n(town hall).<\/p>\n
The town hall is itself notable, being the largest colonial
\nbuilding in Malang. Its symmetrical front, steeply gabled roofs
\nand brilliant white walls create a pleasing picture for the
\neye and tell of the respect with which the building has been
\nretained and maintained.<\/p>\n
The Independence Monument lies at the center of the
\nmain thoroughfare in this part of town, Jl. Tugu.
\nAgain former colonial residences stand along this tree-lined
\navenue, but the heart of Jl. Tugu is the circular, landscaped
\ncommemorative park that surrounds the monument. The monument
\nstands in the middle of a lily-pad covered pond with immaculately
\nkept hedges, shrubs and lawns all around. This small park is a
\ncalming and respectful tribute to those that fought in East Java.
\nLittle disturbs the peace in this suburban area of town.<\/p>\n
With the theme of independence so much in evidence here, it
\nwas quite ironic to see a small group of demonstrators marching
\nto the Balai Kota; but the group of protesters did gather there
\nto make their call for independence for Irian Jaya from
\nIndonesia.<\/p>\n
In the genteel settings of these tree-lined avenues an
\nindependence rally hardly looks like an act of rebellion. Instead
\nit appears to be a pleasant afternoon stroll among friends.
\nPolice motorcyclists shepherding the marchers wear relaxed smiles
\nand engage in friendly banter with the banner-carrying
\nprotesters. It seems that being residents of Malang has given
\nthem a good and calm temperament, and thus life in Malang is not
\na misfortune, but is, in fact, good fortune.<\/p>",
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