A look at modeling in North Sulawesi: Pretty, Zealous but not the
\nright size<\/p>\n
By Yusuf Susilo Hartono<\/p>\n
MANADO, North Sulawesi (JP): It was twilight in late April at
\nManado's Sunset Cafe when Nike Lomban, 17, a fashion model now
\ngaining popularity, posed before the camera of a photographer
\nfrom NiKita tabloid.<\/p>\n
The photo shoot drew the attention of some guests, who admired
\nthe 165-centimeter-tall Nike for her great beauty.<\/p>\n
Both Nike and the photographer were equally fervent. It is a
\nnew trend here for models to grace the cover of a tabloid.<\/p>\n
Since its maiden issue last March, this local family magazine,
\nusing the area's language, has always featured a fashion model on
\nits cover. It is a golden opportunity for young models in North
\nSulawesi, where such chances were previously rare.<\/p>\n
The fair-skinned pretty model has actually a long name: Joanna
\nEunike Helena Lomban. In her eleventh year at a Manado public
\nsenior high school, Nike has won a number of prizes for modeling
\nat the provincial level. Only last month, for example, she came
\nin second at the 2001 East Indonesia Modeling Contest.<\/p>\n
It is Chok Tellew, one of Manado's top designers, that has
\npaved the way for Nike to tap her natural talent on the catwalk.
\nThanks to Chok, who spent six years in dress designing in
\nJakarta, Nike has excelled to a level where she is a force to be
\nreckoned with, though only at the provincial level.<\/p>\n
\"I'm planning to go to Jakarta after leaving senior high,\" she
\nsaid after the photo shoot at Sunset, which overlooks the
\nSulawesi sea. After she was told about the fierce competition in
\nthe modeling world in Jakarta, Nike, was briefly silent and
\nseemed doubtful of her plans.<\/p>\n
Nike is only one of dozens of models in North Sulawesi, the
\nland of swaying palm trees. Maya Damayanti, Maya Waloni, Lia
\nLianto, Mellina Mandagi, Chintya Kalangit, Cindy Wowor, Riany
\nGiroth and Mikha Paruntu are but a few examples.<\/p>\n
Generally, these models, successful only at the local level,
\nnurture a deep wish to be popular in Jakarta.<\/p>\n
Unfortunately, no models from Manado have been very successful
\nin the capital. A few have joined fashion contests organized by
\nFemina, a woman's magazine, or Aneka, a magazine for teenagers,
\nbut there has been no other work afterwards.<\/p>\n
Hurdles<\/p>\n
Why have only a few of Manado's fashion models succeeded on
\nthe catwalk in Jakarta or at national events? Maya Damayanti, 19,
\na student at Sam Ratulangi University who won the top prize at
\nthe 2001 East Indonesia Modeling Contest, has determined the
\nreasons to be physical, mental and, most importantly, economical.
\nShe said a model needs millions of rupiah to be able to get to
\nJakarta.<\/p>\n
If she has to stay in the capital, the cost of living is very
\nhigh. \"If a job is readily available, that's okay. But if you
\nhave to look around for a job for a long time, it will be really
\ndifficult,\" said Maya, whose parents are from Central Java.<\/p>\n
A local fashion observer, Sam D. Pantouw, who studied at OQ
\nModeling in Jakarta in 1989, said separately that Maya was right.
\nHe added that another hurdle was the fact that even though some
\nmodels had work in an office, most were generally students at the
\nsecondary or tertiary level. \"Understandably, in Manado you
\ncannot live on modeling,\" said Sam.<\/p>\n
He predicted, though, that a model desperately deciding to
\ncompete in Jakarta actually stood a good chance at succeeding,
\nespecially in non-catwalk jobs, such as photo, beauty,
\nadvertising or video clip models.<\/p>\n
These jobs are suitable for them as they have a beautiful face
\nwith fair skin and are not too tall.<\/p>\n
However, to compete on the catwalk, a model must be at least
\n170 cm tall. Unfortunately, models from Manado are on the average
\nonly about 160 cm tall. Besides, they have large bones. \"This
\ngenetic factor, in my opinion, is the most serious handicap for
\nthose wishing to be catwalk models,\" said Sam, with whom Chok
\nTellew concurs.<\/p>\n
Chok added that models from Manado generally have large bones
\nand big hips, a reason why they do not possess the ideal and
\nproportional appearance that national or international models do.
\nAlso, they usually do not meet the standard of an ideal model's
\nfigure: measuring 90 cm, 90 cm and 65 cm respectively around the
\nhips, bust and waist, taller than 170 cm and having long shapely
\nlegs.<\/p>\n
Apart from the genetic factor, Sam noted, models from Manado
\neasily gain weight because locals usually eat a lot and their
\ndaily diet is not conducive to keeping their bodies slim,
\nespecially if they live in a cool place and do not exercise
\nenough.<\/p>\n
Map<\/p>\n
Regardless of the obstacles, many young women in the province
\ndream of being a top model. This may reflect the Manadoese
\npenchant for being stylish. There is a popular saying here that
\nreflects that ideal: \"It is better to eat nothing than not be
\nstylish.\"<\/p>\n
Unfortunately, this desire is yet to be realized for the
\nfashion industry. As the general manager of NiKita tabloid, Timmy
\nKatoppo, puts it, there has been hardly any progress in the
\nmodeling world in North Sulawesi. \"In the present era of regional
\nautonomy, it is a common challenge for all of us, the modeling
\nworld, the mass media, the businessmen and the local
\nadministration to provide steam to the fashion industry in North
\nSulawesi,\" said Timmy, who also teaches at the fine arts
\ndepartment of the state-owned teacher training institute in
\nManado.<\/p>\n
The modeling world in North Sulawesi is causing concern. Most
\nmodels are relying only on their natural talents. Manado has yet
\nto have a fashion school or personal development school that also
\nhas a modeling course, such as John Robert Powers Institute in
\nJakarta or Surabaya. Local designers have yet to establish their
\nown association, or join the associations that are found in
\nJakarta, such as the Indonesian Designers Association (APPMI) and
\nIndonesian Designer Council (IPMI).<\/p>\n
Those involved in the modeling sector here do not share a
\nnetwork with people in other regions although there are a few
\nlocal modeling agencies, such as those owned by Chock Tellew and
\nSam D. Pantouw.<\/p>\n
The local mass media, most often dailies and tabloids, do not
\nusually allocate a special space for modeling affairs, a column
\nspecially run by a model and beauty editor. Manado,
\nunfortunately, has yet to have its own women's magazines, where
\nmodels can show their action.<\/p>\n
NiKita, which also carries stories on fashion and beauty, is
\napt as it gives an opportunity for models to appear on its cover
\nand its centerfolds. Unlike state-owned TVRI in Jakarta, TVRI in
\nManado does not have a special fashion program.<\/p>\n
Admittedly, fashion shows are rarely organized in North
\nSulawesi. Manado, unlike Jakarta, has never hosted an end-of-year
\nfashion show as a guide for fashion trends in the new year. Local
\ndesigners have not taken the initiative to organize a yearly
\nfashion show, arguing that such an event needs a lot of money and
\nthat the market does not have the potential for the fashion
\nbusiness. Surprisingly, a visit to a department store at Market
\n45 shows quite the opposite as it is always crowded with
\ncustomers.<\/p>\n
So local models rely on the launching of new products or join
\ncertain events that advertise for them. Their potential has yet
\nto be tapped for modeling in the print\/electronic media or in
\nmusic video clips. The local print media publishes advertisements
\nonly in writing, without the use of models. Only beauty parlors
\nadvertising wedding gowns use models. Besides, Manado does not
\nyet have any advertising bureaus.<\/p>\n
However, there is good enthusiasm for modeling here. Modeling
\ncontests are often crowded with participants although
\nregistration is expensive. One contest is the Mr. and Miss North
\nSulawesi contest.<\/p>\n
Both Timmy and Sam have called on everybody in the fashion
\nworld in North Sulawesi to benefit from the regional autonomy
\nmomentum to revive the local fashion industry. The first thing to
\ndo is to put the infrastructure in order. Cooperation must then
\nbe established with Jakarta, and, if necessary, with foreign
\ncountries. In the absence of a network, the modeling world in
\nNorth Sulawesi will only be shallow-minded.<\/p>\n
Of all the models in Manado, only Maya Damayanti is getting
\nready to try her luck in Jakarta.<\/p>\n
If Maya is successful and can make her existence known on the
\ncatwalk in the capital, she will be a locomotive giving steam to
\nthe modeling world in North Sulawesi.<\/p>",
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