A Korean experience in a Little Korea<\/p>\n
JAKARTA (JP): The Korea Tower restaurant -- a Little Korea on
\nthe 30th floor of the BBD building on Jl. Imam Bonjol, Central
\nJakarta -- holds the same set of lofty promises as all top-floor
\nrestaurants in highrise buildings. Breathtaking views. Luxurious
\nambience. Elegant service. Food fit for an emperor. Prices that
\noften don't show on the menu.<\/p>\n
Much like the prominent landmark in which it is housed, it
\nsuggests cool exclusivity that only caters to the deep-pocketed,
\na select number of connoisseurs and native Koreans in search of a
\nmomentary taste of home.<\/p>\n
In my experience, however, clueless, non-Korean people who
\njust happen to be in the building often elect to place their bets
\non Yakiniku Daidomon, the Japanese restaurant next door. And this
\nis understandable, too, for Japanese cuisine has established a
\nfoothold here, and familiar means safe. Which goes to show how
\nmuch the ill-informed can miss. For it was apparent, at least on
\nthe day I visited, that Yakiniku Daidomon was only sparsely
\nfilled, and The Korea Tower was bustling with activity. Despite
\nthe stressful campaign atmosphere, it was a full house on a
\nMonday night. That speaks well for eating establishments anywhere
\nand any place.<\/p>\n
It turned out to be an ambience that was more bubbly than
\nluxurious, evoking the kind of casual, relaxed, laughter-filled
\njoviality of those who were there not to see or to be seen but to
\nsimply enjoy good food. Ninety-nine percent of the diners were
\nKorean, which was another assuring sign that we were about to
\npartake of the \"real thing\".<\/p>\n
With typical elegant efficiency, the menus were laid before us
\nby daintily-polite yet experienced waiters. There was an air of
\n\"old establishment\" that may be in keeping with the restaurant's
\n12-year or so history.<\/p>\n
The interior, commented one of my dinner companions, is
\ntypical of Korean restaurants in South Korea: parquet floor,
\nceilings with the ubiquitous Korean flower motif, square
\nlanterns, private cubicles and a diminutive stage replete with a
\nparaphernalia of Korean musical instruments. To me, it looks like
\none of those instant-culture bastions in faraway places that kind
\nof clash with the 1950s oldies and annoying Muzak.<\/p>\n
However, out of Korea Tower's general clutter emerged a warm
\nsense of intimacy. Especially when the food arrived in timely
\nsuccession, thanks to an omnipotent walking bag of efficiency
\nthey call a manager.<\/p>\n
First, thumbs up to the standard selection of vegetable side
\ndishes, including several kinds of kimchi, pickled spinach and
\nsweet spiced cucumber. They were excellent. Then came the two
\nbarbecued dishes of Bulgogi (strips of marinated U.S. beef
\nbroiled on a convex cooker), perhaps the cuisine's best known
\ndish, and Saeng deung sim (roasted U.S. sirloin). Accompanying
\nthem was a plateful of raw, leafy vegetables (lettuce, red
\nspinach, Chinese cabbage, giant bok choy) with which to wrap the
\nbeef and solid vegetables (carrot, cucumber, sweet potato) to
\ndip into the garlicky, bean paste-based chili sauce.<\/p>\n
Two complaints. For Rp 21,000 and Rp 27,000 a piece, the beef
\ndishes were far too small, and I would have liked raw garlic to
\nwrap in the leafy pancake. Well, frankly speaking I don't know
\nhow authentic that version is, but I guess one tends to pine for
\nwhat one is used to. In any case, the beef was tender to the
\ntaste and the seasoning was tasty enough - not ambrosial, but
\npretty representative. But, again, due to the law of familiarity,
\nI would have preferred it on the sweeter side.<\/p>\n
Next to satisfy rumbling stomachs was Ge Lan Chim, a souffle-
\nlike Korean porridge with egg that, upon observation, was almost
\non every table. But it tasted no more than puffed-up scrambled
\negg chock-filled with milk and garnished with spring onions.
\nActually, since the dish arrived, I began doing some serious
\nsniffing and bending over to locate the source of a repulsive,
\npungent smell. Later in the car, one of my companions said, \"I
\nthink it was the egg porridge\". Gee, thanks, mate, for eating it
\nlike there was no tomorrow.<\/p>\n
The Jang O Kui (grilled eel), however, is definitely a
\ndelicacy worth crowing about. I agree that eel, in any way, shape
\nor form, is not everybody's idea of gastronomy, and it isn't as
\nif this poor, pitiful creature is perched elegantly on a minute
\npiece of sushi. However, this particular eel was beautifully
\ngrilled, and I at last found in the sauce the discreet sweetness
\nI craved.<\/p>\n
A classic mistake occurred when we ordered two kinds of soup
\nthat we thought were different but turned out to be similar. One
\nwas the Korean signature soup, Cige (Mae Un Tang), a peppery hot
\nfish soup, and the other was All Tang, an egg fish soup. You do
\nhave to have a certain acquired taste for this kind of soup, I'm
\nafraid, because it has the kind of spiciness that burns your
\nthroat.<\/p>\n
Another mistake, this time not caused by us, was the Cha Jang
\nMyun (cold noodles swathed in a bean paste or tauco sauce) which
\nwasn't what we ordered. Since none of us is a fan of Malaysian
\nrojak, which is exactly what this dish tasted like, it was a
\nrather sorry finale to an otherwise agreeable dinner.<\/p>\n
My only warning is that since South Korean cuisine boasts as
\nmany extremes as its landscape and climate, it would be best to
\nask for recommendations, especially if you are new to the
\nexperience. For Rp 200,000 for four persons, it could be a
\nrather costly experience.<\/p>\n
-- Epicurus<\/p>", "url": "https:\/\/jawawa.id\/newsitem\/a-korean-experience-in-a-little-korea-1447893297", "image": "" }, "sponsor": "Okusi Associates", "sponsor_url": "https:\/\/okusiassociates.com" }