1996 trends show nostalgia for 1960s chic<\/p>\n
JAKARTA (JP): The Indonesian Fashion Designer's Association
\n(AAPMI) staged a similar Trend Show, called Tendance 96, the day
\nafter IPMI's show.<\/p>\n
Is competition heating up between the two organizations?
\nDesigners declined to comment on the rivalry, but IPMI's efforts
\nfar out staged its competitors.<\/p>\n
Presentation played an important role in IPMI's dominance.
\nIPMI's show was held in the plush ballroom of the Jakarta
\nConvention Center, AAPMI's in the lobby of the Ministry of
\nEducation and Culture. The former's show was enhanced with
\nmasterful stage coordination, while the latter's performance was
\nweakened by poor lighting.<\/p>\n
AAPMI director Poppy Dharsono argued that this is the best
\nthey can afford without sponsorship.<\/p>\n
"It's difficult to find a stage in Jakarta that isn't an
\nexpensive hotel," Poppy said. The lack of funding also meant
\nphotocopied press releases instead of the usual glossy pamphlets.
\nDirector of the Femina Group Pia Alisjahbana said that it's not
\nthe glossy packaging that counts, but what's inside the package.<\/p>\n
"What's important is the fashion shown," said Pia. "This is a
\ngood move for fashion," she added.<\/p>\n
Unfortunately, the AAPMI fashions didn't live up to the hype.
\nA mountain of good intentions does not compensate for collections
\nlacking in vision and expertise. Designer Taruna Kusmayadi said
\nthat AAPMI's show is different because it doesn't follow European
\ntrends strictly. Instead, they design with a "9 to 5" concept
\nsuitable for working women, and try to sell clothes within an
\naffordable price range.<\/p>\n
Few women will dress for the office in Taruna's Barbarella
\ncreations: pink velour miniskirts, cropped jackets with wing-like
\nsleeves, and thigh-high boots. The downwardly-mobile may don
\nNanik Luminto's bodysuits worn over polyester leggings and white
\nhigh-heels, but not ambitious female yuppies. Low-cost clothes do
\nnot have to look cheap.<\/p>\n
Some of AAPMI's clothes are obviously expensive.<\/p>\n
"The high fashion is difficult to make, so it's a little
\nexpensive, maybe Rp 3 million a gown," Poppy Dharsono said while
\nletting out an embarrassed giggle. The gowns require yards and
\nyards of fine batik, Poppy reminded, so it should be expensive.
\nAll that money should also include fine tailoring, but her
\nbodices were ill-fitting, and the yards of fabric meant cluttered
\nlayers. However, the fabrics themselves -- painted silks in pale
\ngolden hues -- are beautiful.<\/p>\n
AAPMI is actually about beautiful fabrics, not necessarily
\nbeautiful clothes. Dadang Koesdarto's ikat motif silks are subtle
\nstatements of elegance, as are Dimas Mahendra's colorful tie-
\ndyes. Diah Prass' painted satins in marine shades are stunning.
\nHer spare designs, off-the-shoulder tops and low-waisted ankle-
\nlength skirts are elegant, but the styling spoiled the look. Who
\nwants to wear a swimming cap out of the water?<\/p>\n
AAPMI's designs are indeed like fish out of water. Their
\nsearch for Indonesian instead of European inspiration is
\npraiseworthy, but the search is ultimately fruitless. Themes like
\n"Aura Makassar" and "Marine Metamorphis" produced little-
\nunderstood and awkward designs. Dimas Mahendra's striped yellow-
\nand-black baju bodo, for example, is basically an unflattering
\nbee costume. Etty Bachetta plastered Asmat motifs on her gold
\npolyester satins when not weighing down her tangled designs with
\nblue ribbons. The models looked like Christmas presents: Is this
\nBachetta's idea of Christmas cheer?<\/p>\n
Christmas is a few short weeks away. What about dressing for
\nthe new millennium? Musa Widyatmodjo tried to answer with tight
\ncopper suits in crushed synthetics. Seen it, worn it. Jazz Pasay
\noffered crepe gowns in nude hues. The color is wonderfully
\nunassuming; the elaborate shapes and lace bras are not. Henry
\nKusuma thinks the future means polyester satins in palest pink
\nand blue. Sound enough? wait for the shapes the fabrics take.
\nHipster skirts, long empire-waisted dresses, worn with
\nconstruction hats and high heels. The getups are beyond
\ncomprehension.<\/p>\n
-- Dini S. Djalal<\/p>", "url": "https:\/\/jawawa.id\/newsitem\/1996-trends-show-nostalgia-for-1960s-chic-1447893297", "image": "" }, "sponsor": "Okusi Associates", "sponsor_url": "https:\/\/okusiassociates.com" }